Just Got One

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So anyway, that just happened. That's gonna be a pain in the ass trying to get back on there.
 

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Guess it wasn't that bad after all.
DougStar said:
As fun as it is to tear stripps off the new guy😱🤣 that will be enough now👍🏻 if you have nothing constructive to add at this point don't post👍🏻
Maybe a quick✊🏻✊🏻💦💦
Will be my next suggestion 😆
Oh please challenge me😉
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What are they still talking poop? I had to put em all on ignore, Doug. I get an email every time somebody posts on my thread otherwise. That's a damned shame. It shouldn't have to be that way.
Doesn't die when it flips over with the new gas cap. I guess it wasn't holding a certain amount of pressure that it needs when the liquid hit the seal as opposed to the air and fumes while upright and that caused it to starve of fuel.
 

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dzylzzrd said:
Get an OBR? No, that has never occurred to me. I think I'll do the front stiffener and get the steering good and just run the hell out of it for a good long while. This thing really rips it up.
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Oh my sweet summer child. I used to think so too until I got my 34ss... I'm afraid of what RCMAX might do to me, might send me right to the poor house.
 
Troopermaniac said:
I mean mine lasted 3 years. There are exceptions sometimes but I agree, most likely won't last.
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I don't know what is typical with these rc's, but I'd imagine I'll just buy a rebuild kit when it wears out like I used to do with the nitro motors. Is that what you do or what? Although the zenoah 320 was only $299 I think, if that'll fit it.
 
dzylzzrd said:
I don't know what is typical with these rc's, but I'd imagine I'll just buy a rebuild kit when it wears out like I used to do with the nitro motors. Is that what you do or what? Although the zenoah 320 was only $299 I think, if that'll fit it.
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There's different levels of rebuilding with these motors. If no dirt gets in the motor to cause scoring than to wake it back up after a season of running hard is to replace the piston ring, $6. They wear and cause loss of compression. If for some reason you see scoring to the point you can fit a finger nail into the head you'll need a new top end kit, cylindar, piston, ring, piston bearing. $150 for a ported option. I re-ring at the end of every season I run.

Then you have the bottom end/crankcase. The case itself should never go bad, got one that's over 12yrs old and has had multiple top ends on it and at least 3 bearing replacements. Bearings, gaskets and oil seals are the wear item for the bottom. When they go you'll get air leaks and won't be able to hold a tune. Probably around a $40 job.
 
MonsterAir said:
There's different levels of rebuilding with these motors. If no dirt gets in the motor to cause scoring than to wake it back up after a season of running hard is to replace the piston ring, $6. They wear and cause loss of compression. If for some reason you see scoring to the point you can fit a finger nail into the head you'll need a new top end kit, cylindar, piston, ring, piston bearing. $150 for a ported option. I re-ring at the end of every season I run.

Then you have the bottom end/crankcase. The case itself should never go bad, got one that's over 12yrs old and has had multiple top ends on it and at least 3 bearing replacements. Bearings, gaskets and oil seals are the wear item for the bottom. When they go you'll get air leaks and won't be able to hold a tune. Probably around a $40 job.
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MonsterAir said:
There's different levels of rebuilding with these motors. If no dirt gets in the motor to cause scoring than to wake it back up after a season of running hard is to replace the piston ring, $6. They wear and cause loss of compression. If for some reason you see scoring to the point you can fit a finger nail into the head you'll need a new top end kit, cylindar, piston, ring, piston bearing. $150 for a ported option. I re-ring at the end of every season I run.

Then you have the bottom end/crankcase. The case itself should never go bad, got one that's over 12yrs old and has had multiple top ends on it and at least 3 bearing replacements. Bearings, gaskets and oil seals are the wear item for the bottom. When they go you'll get air leaks and won't be able to hold a tune. Probably around a $40 job.
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Not sure what you mean by the finger nail in the head, but thanks very much for the info. I don't have seasons here by the way. It's always rc season at my house. In fact, I prefer the winter. Not so fiddlesticking hot, ya know?
 
dzylzzrd said:
I don't know what is typical with these rc's, but I'd imagine I'll just buy a rebuild kit when it wears out like I used to do with the nitro motors. Is that what you do or what? Although the zenoah 320 was only $299 I think, if that'll fit it.
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For four hundred and change you can get an esp 34. They are the best bang for the buck engines by far👍 But I’d wait until that one shits the bed
dzylzzrd said:
Not sure what you mean by the finger nail in the head, but thanks very much for the info. I don't have seasons here by the way. It's always rc season at my house. In fact, I prefer the winter. Not so fiddlesticking hot, ya know?
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Meaning you can feel the score in the cylinder head by running your fingernail across the scratch.
 
misterleon said:
For four hundred and change you can get an esp 34. They are the best bang for the buck engines by far👍 But I’d wait until that one shits the bed

Meaning you can feel the score in the cylinder head by running your fingernail across the When you say cylinder head, do you mean cylinder wall?
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misterleon said:
For four hundred and change you can get an esp 34. They are the best bang for the buck engines by far👍 But I’d wait until that one shits the bed

Meaning you can feel the score in the cylinder head by running your fingernail across the scratch.
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I'll check that ESP 34 out right now on the internet, thanks.

Do you mean the cylinder wall where the piston slides up and down? The head is on top. I don't see how it can get scratched on the head.
 
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