Killer RC Rocker Switch Problem

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This seems like a relatively new issue. I think it’s to do with increased stiffness of a lot of our builds. I’ve had a killer rc switch that has never had an issue. Here’s the but though, it’s mounted to a plastic lid on a plastic box with rubber mounts on a plastic chassis. I could be talking total balls but it looks like a pattern to me.

Crucial with his carbon build and those with Krakens and other solid metal chassis rigs running a metal box, those models must suffer from worse vibration. In almost all cases stiffness is a better thing for handling, but the vibration passed to other parts is an issue that we only discover as we run over time. Big bores probably make the issues worse.

Its trial and error with this stuff because a lot of our stuff is very custom and fairly unique to each person.

I won’t get on to the subject of matching parts from different manufacturer. 🤣
mine is on plastic lid on plastic box and plastic tray but it will shut off luckily the kill switch shut the engine down right away so not much of a hassle but have to restart.
 
Whats the footprint on that SkyRc one pictured @Haric ? Will it work in the spot I have my Killer RC switch? Also how did you tuck the wire so its clean and not visible?
I’ll get you measurements when I get home.
You gotta drill a hole on the back cover & de-pin the plugs. Run the wires thru the hole, plugs back in. No soldering required. I have posted somewhere. I’ll see if I can find it

edit: ok found it. Scroll down post# 44
https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/haric’s-mcd-w5-max-ultimate-build.26932/page-3
 
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Whats the footprint on that SkyRc one pictured @Haric ? Will it work in the spot I have my Killer RC switch?
@RickDizzle I forgot to get you the measurements🤦🏻‍♂️ but this is John’s switch that he put over the killer rc switch hole.
Looks like he shifted it to the left and made the hole slightly bigger to put the wires thru.E22969DB-2975-4CF7-896C-0BE460050AFF.jpeg
 
Everyone please be careful if/when using this switch. I love the looks and LED on it but I've had 2 accidents where the switch toggled off while running leaving no brakes or steering. I'll never use them again but that's just my $.02. Picture below is @John Parks and is just for reference. View attachment 76759
It’s always best practice to make sure failsafe has been programmed…damn
 
That’s what a failsafe does, locks the brakes when setup correctly 🤷‍♂️
Not trying to argue by any means...but the fail safe works when loss of radio signal takes place, it moves servos to a preposition setting as assigned during set up. So if this switch fails, you lose all "power" to the rig. I.e. the truck will just shut engine off and coast uncontrolled as there is no longer power to move the servo(s) to the prepositioned setting from the failsafe. Think of it like this...if the failsafe worked by loss of power...every time your shut off your rig by its switch, the servos would go to that assigned position...but they cant as they have no power.
If I am wrong with this...someone please correct me as this is how I have understood this for years...
 
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