Killswitch Problem

[Z.hb71]

I find it funny that you are calling a long time member ignorant when you joined less than a week ago without introduction, could be just me though ?‍
I've done the rubber band trick, doesn't serve as a replacement for a kill switch and won't save you if your throttle servo craps itself and sticks in one position. Like crucial says, it's not enought to overpower a strong servo such as the ones we are running even if the servo has no power to it

Sorry, but the only thing a rubber band does is acts as a throttle return, period. The only way it would act as a failsafe is if the horn stripped out.

This /\

Llorraine? No man. Thrasher. This is a proxy account as the other one fiddlesticked up and I have no idea how it happend. At first I thought it was a shadowban but I had not gotten that impression from the admins soeh.....

Contact woodie if your really thrasher, he'll sort you out. And creating 2 accounts regardless of the situation is against the rules.

 

[AnubisBC]

No it doesn't. You can keep running your ignorant mouth and come up with hypothesis or you can put a rubber band on your servo and see that it works. it takes 2 minutes (if you do it with your feet for challenge)

Don't need to do it to know it will do nothing in a WOT runaway, which is why I bought the kill switch in the first place. But hey, you do you. ?‍

 

[Proxythrasher]

Don't need to do it to know it will do nothing in a WOT runaway, which is why I bought the kill switch in the first place. But hey, you do you. ?‍

Could you stop saying you know something when clearly you don't. Thats my issue with this. I don't mind that you don't want to do it. But you are telling others that it don't work ,and you fiddlesticking don't know. It will work in ANY run away situation except one where the servo gets stuck wide open. However ,then we are dealing with a tech issue that could just aswell befall your killswitch. That it simple doesn't do what it supposed to because of bugout

By all means own your expensive false sense of security all day long. But don't say that mine doesn't work without testing because you are wholly and entirely wrong and your speculation is no substitute for knowledge.

 

[Z.hb71]

The chance of a good Killswitch (not dynamite, fleebay) crapping itself is nearly none, look at Anubis bc, he had his baja, what 8+ years (correct me if im wrong @AnubisBC ) with that same Killswitch he says , not a single issue. Why fiddlestick around with a rubber band potentially being stretched, snapping, (not that it will close the throttle either way ??) when you can pay $60 (cheap as hell in the long run, especially compared to the price of the rig ) and have almost gaurenteed no issues. Seems like an irresponsible thing to do ?‍ and if the Killswitch stops working, if you buy a reputable one, they will most likely be replace it free of charge if it was a problem with their product. why are we arguing this exactly? Seems like a dumb argument to me.

 

[Proxythrasher]

yeah ,well thats how it goes when you are saying ignorant stupid poop about something right? I am not saying the guy is a moron. I am saying about this, he chose to be ignorant because of some idea in his head. Just like you. And I like the fact that you are willing to lie over it.

I've done the rubber band trick

No you haven't because you go onto say

Like crucial says, it's not enought to overpower a strong servo such as the ones we are running even if the servo has no power to it

It has got nothing to do with how powerful the servo is. its a flaw(feaure?) in servo design that makes it work.. THE ENGINE VIBRATION IS WHAT MAKES IT WORK NOT THE PULL OF THE BAND ITSELF.

Is this thing on? tap tap It doesn't need to have much pull. You can see in my mates image. 2 rubber bands comfortably stretched out.

The chance of a good Killswitch (not dynamite, fleebay) crapping itself is nearly none

The same can be said for a good servo. If my 'killswitch' dies i can replace if for like a 100th of a dollar. And i have excactly the same level of protection. don't kid yourself. There will always be a thing you cant guard against and the simpler a thing the fewer things can potentially go wrong with it. Mine is a single object....

 

[Z.hb71]

Lie? Not at all, I've done this before and it didn't work. im not gunna argue you, you seem dead set on endangering people with a possible runaway rc. But, let's suppose your rubber band does work, we all know rubber brands get stretched (basic knowledge, lemme guess your Gunna argue that too ??), you say it's dependant on engine vibrations, how the hell are you going to test that it isnt worn out in the slightest before you go and run (like us people with ks do, flick of a switch before you run and you know if it's still working)??? Your would have to have a runaway scenario, which would be time consuming, and a risk (cuz who knows if the rubber is stretched, if it is then you created a runaway), to test if it will still return to idle (you would have to have a runaway scenario Becuase, then we're are you getting the desired vibrations from), and if it doesn't, it goes off at 40+mph into someones dog, leg, car, house, kid, you get the point. Just buy a Killswitch people, cheap insurance with pretty much zero risk (it ain't the 19th century were electronics were new and unreliable)

The same can be said for a good servo. If my 'killswitch' dies i can replace if for like a 100th of a dollar. And i have excactly the same level of protection. don't kid yourself. There will always be a thing you cant guard against and the simpler a thing the fewer things can potentially go wrong with it. Mine is a single object....

Yes but the servo isn't the only possible issue. The servo or receiver could get interference and bug out making the servo go WOT (A good ks shuts the engine off if it detects interfearence) im which the rubber bands and vibrations won't do poop

 

[Proxythrasher]

Lie? Not at all, I've done this before and it didn't work

don't dig yourself in any deeper, lad. Its not worth being a liar over. What you descibed is not the way it works at all.

you say it's dependant on engine vibrations, how the hell are you going to test that it isnt worn out in the slightest before you go and run

You have tried it. You would know. If you are not on the throttle, the vehicle wants to break. If it doesn't do that, you setup is not working right. Use a metal spring or an extra band.

consider this. The worst that can happen by doing it is that people have a backup to their KS. So when they are in front of the judge they can say that they did everything they could. Both a mechanical and a digital solution.

 

[AnubisBC]

It will work in ANY run away situation except one where the servo gets stuck wide open.

The ONLY runaway situation is when the servo gets stuck wide open. Unless you drop your transmitter.

I don't know why you're so angry. I'm not attacking you. I don't agree with your position, and I've given you a reasonable argument.

I will gladly take videos of stopping a WOT runaway using my failsafe. Put your money where your mouth is. Stop a WOT runaway with your rubberband. Letting off the throttle is not the same as stopping a WOT runaway, which is exactly why remote kill switches were invented.

 

[Proxythrasher]

The ONLY runaway situation is when the servo gets stuck wide open.

I mean if the servo happens to get completely stuck (gear breaks and gets stuck inbetween the others). I have had a servo fail on me and it was pulled right back and got stuck in break position instead. The big gear was obliterated and was stuck between the others. However because of the rubberband, right as at snapped the rubber pulled the whole thing back. Its 100th of seconds we are talking here. You can keep yapping and theorizing or you can try it out. Untill you have, your are talking out of your ass.- I am not angry. I am writing in the same fashion I always write, its just that if we disagree on something then all of a sudden I am angry?

and I've given you a reasonable argument.

Its not a reasonably argument when its based on wrong assumptions

Letting off the throttle is not the same as stopping a WOT runaway, which is exactly why remote kill switches were invented.

Letting off, lose contact same same to the servo.

Edit. If you are running at top speed and your system shits itself. The KS stop the engine. What happens to the vehicle? It is heading for a group of children and their puppies.

edit2. This particular comment grinds my gears I will admit. What would a video of you using a KS prove? I am not saying that they don't work at all and that people should not use them. In fact if you are afraid of getting sued, I don't understand why you are not all over every solutuion that could be used to prevent accidental harm against people and your own wallet.

 

[AnubisBC]

Your entire argument was that one could use a rubberband instead of a kill switch. I never said your idea wasn't useful for some situations. I was merely arguing that it is not a replacement for a remote kill switch.

 

[foundryratjim]

haven't heard anyone doing that yet, may work.

I installed a SR515 receiver, its non AVC. Killer Bee works perfectly . At signal loss ignition is killed, brake applied, wheels turn right to go in circle.

 

[mj.jafari]

Good information below, please take time to read

Thanks to all you guys for sharing your experience with Spektrum and Killswitch

I know different people had different opinions and experiences, but reading through all of them, there was no consistency and rock solid solution.

I personally had this issue but spent a lot of time and wasted a fair bit of money to once for all get to the bottom of this and I eventually did.

As we all know a killswitch connected to an AUX channel should kill engine via the remote which is the function a programmed key on your transmitter as well as signal loss which is a function of the receiver failsafe to take all channel to a predefined position.

For a killswitch to do its job properly, failsafe needs to be set in a way to turn off the AUX channel associated with the killswitch, so on radio loss the killswitch kills the engine. This is the point where most of people including myself having trouble. Realising that the issue is related to failsafe, forced me to properly understand the failsafe on Spektrum receivers. Not sure if you guys know but Spektrum has 3 different failsafe modes, 1. Hold Last, which simply retains all the channels as they are 2. SmartSafe, which lower throttle but keep all other channels as they are 3. Gas mode which lets you define what happens to each channel on signal loss.

Different failsafe mode have different setting features, the manual of your receiver explains how to set each mode

The following text is direct from Spektrum manual:

• Standard Mode

If loss of signal occurs, SmartSafe™ technology moves the throttle channel to its designated failsafe position (low throttle) that was set during binding.

All other channels hold their last position. When the receiver detects signal from the transmitter, normal operation resumes.

• Gas Mode

Preset failsafe is ideal for most nitro/gas vehicles. With preset failsafe, all channels go to their preset failsafe positions if the signal is lost, preventing an out of control situation.

When the receiver detects signal from the transmitter, normal operation resumes.

as per the Spektrum surface receiver comparison chart which I’ve left the link below, only 3 models of their current receivers have the capabilities of the GAS mode failsafe , those models are SR215, SR315 and SR515.

https://spektrumrc.com/Content/Media/PDF/64930-dot-1-surface-rx-chart.pdf

The Killswitch issue on Spektrum has nothing to do with AVC as most people think , however interestingly enough , the 3 models I mentioned above are not capable of AVC. Basically they don’t make a receiver with AVC and GAS Mode failsafe which I understand why, AVC is mainly designed for small electric RC that is not easy to control as a 1/5th GAS.

In addition, if you look at their comparison chart, the only 3 models with GAS failsafe have been recommended for 1/5th GAS cars , so I’m puzzled why Horizon is shipping out 5ive T2.0 with a SR6200A which as per their chart is intended for anything but not a GAS car …..!!!! they are selling gas cars with unsuitable receivers fitted in which is causing a lot of headache out there.

I changed my receiver to a SR515 and got the killerbee working in 5 minutes.

What I’ve posted above was also a news to KillerRC guys , they are going to publish this on their website to help people in future

 

[RcJunkie13]

 

[DougStar]

I changed my receiver to a SR515 and got the killerbee working in 5 minutes.

When I was using spektrum with a killer bee I could I could kill the motor without an issue, but it would not kill with signal lose. Sr415 sr315, only half worked . I switched to futaba and now it works as it should

 

[mj.jafari]

When I was using spektrum with a killer bee I could I could kill the motor without an issue, but it would not kill with signal lose. Sr415 sr315, only half worked . I switched to futaba and now it works as it should

There is a different binding process to activate Gas Failsafe, you need to read the manual, it's basically keeping the bind button pressed through the entire binding process

 

[DougStar]

Not radio fail safe killer bee signal lose engine cut off down dose not work with spektrum

There is a different binding process to activate Gas Failsafe, you need to read the manual, it's basically keeping the bind button pressed through the entire binding process

 

[mj.jafari]

Not radio fail safe killer bee signal lose engine cut off down dose not work with spektrum

I know what you mean, but as per my post, for Spektrum you need to program the failsafe to turn the AUX channel off for killer bee , this way , on radio loss your receiver enters failsafe mode which will shut your engine

 

[DougStar]

Yeah well my speky the so I binned it i now run futaba and all the went away

 

[Jimmy831105]

Nice bit of info that gents.
J

Im sorry, I don't have any experience with radio controls at all but I have a Rovan 30.5 cc that I bought used for my son. The car has an upgraded remote with a kill switch and I'm not sure if that's what my problem is or not. The buggy will start and everything works fine for 10 seconds or so but then it dies and loses connection between the car and the remote. I can turn the switch off, then back on and it resets the fail safe and start the car again but then the same thing all over again.

 

[foundryratjim]

How is your battery voltage?