TLR 5b basher

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was at a new park today had a bit of a run wasnt without issues:eek: flipped the rig sideways bigtime and both shock mountings on
the rear lower arms poped off
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was an easy fix back in the car(y) then flipped it agai nearly landed in a creek:eek:? lucky it was saved by a big root(y):cool:
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cant see in the pic but was down a bank:eek::oops:
 
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crucialRC said:
Wish I would've read about your manifold issue 6 months ago.? I have an aluminum manifold in my to do box for the Losi. Guess I waont be putting that on.??
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Honestly the obr ran so bad with it ?? few months back when i was having hassle with my motor , i was chating with sean oneil . he had said to me that he'd change the manifold coz they give sh!te?. at the time i thought .....well seans just trying to trouble shoot and past it off? then about a month back i was running the losi and felt
the manifold and it was hot to the touch. And enev thought of putting on a new 1107.....glad i did not? change back to stock intake and she runs like a dream?. So yes don't put it on. It may work ok on a baja ? that get lots of air..... but ill never use one again!
 
The Stock Zenoah manifold can and will crack or warp at some point. The billet manifolds from OBR are cut shorter than a stock Zenoah and are meant to be run with a phenolic spacer block to isolate the heat from the motor to the carb. Some of the other billet manifolds are not built this way and can warp with excessive heat or cause issues with the carb as you have experienced. I will always run the OBR billet manifolds especially since I have seen so many stock manifolds break and warp.
 
The DDM intake is junk look at the others that actually have a 1/4in or more of phenolic spacer to actually isolate the heat from the carb. If you would have run the OBR intake and some some knock off you would not have had any issues, simply user error in this case. Buy quality and buy once or cheap out and redo it several times.
 
dougstar said:
Thanx it was a good run? car ran so smooth with the stock manifold?
Ill never go back tok a billet one. now just to tackle the shock issue ........but not worried about that ?
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If i had the droop screws ajusted further in my shocks perches probably would not have popped off?? hope that the new irp upgrade sorts this out??
 
Just did a rebuild on my shocks?? I upped the weight of the shock oil from 40 to 45.
I just recently ordered some irp shock purches and put them on??52418
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My hitech shock stand???
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TLR shock have bleeder caps this makes
The rebuild a walk in the park??
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I had two bottles of the 45wt oil not much
Is left of the two bottles?
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Dam those look good now no more shock
Poping off??
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Took out my rig this morning ?? killer bee kept activating for low voltage cut :rolleyes: like twice in 10 mins? found a doge power switch. Lucky had a new one I could put on?? on a side note new spring perches were awesome and overall besides power switch the rig performed very well??
 
MOD Ultimate Rear Diff Inserts Losi
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this what they have to say about them on the DDM page(y)
ADVANTAGES:

Much Larger Bearing to help with extreme load. Lasts much longer then standard flanged bearing. This equates to less maintenance cost over time.
Improved Geometry, as now its less likely to strip gears as the OEM right side diff insert is undersized and allows diff to move fore and aft in the case causing improper pinion / ring gear diff engagement which can cause failure to occur.
Improved clearance to run boots over the outdrives. This will help refrain from bone and outdrive wear.
Been in Matts Cars for over 3 years, with success after success with less maintenance cost over time
MOD INSURANCE POLICY:

Ultimate MOD Rear Diff Inserts $63.99 > $64.98 Replacement Ring & Pinion (not counting countless bearings you wont have to replace and have to empty your diff oil continuously to reach the left hand bearing ($27.98 on average to rebuild bearings/oil) (View second image for parts breakdown)
FEATURES:

7075-T6 Anodized Aluminum
Avid RC Bearings
100% Made in the USA!
 
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