ESP G340 vs OBR G340 reed

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Rep732 said:
I went from esp 32cc race port head to a 34cc red arrow...the esp i think is more aggressive but the red arrow has a smoother powerband...and i didn't notice much difference up high so unless you go from 32cc to like 40cc you might be disappointed...honestly I wish I went with the esp34 because I would of had a few more Benjamin's in my pocket
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Rep732 said:
Hey i only say what I was told... i don't make this stuff up because it doesn't help me sleep better at night....my poop runs and im happy with it. I don't buy into obr....also olimat had a post on his Facebook and he was p*ssed that obr copied his pipe design..so honestly im not about snake oil
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Simon was also full of it. If you compare the 2 piped they are nothing alike. OBR pipes are stamped steel with a home made bracket, olimats are your typical conical welded pipe design.

OBR started carrying olimat pipes, with a mix of sean and dan wanting to make a pipe design and Simon's lack of constancy on delivering pipes and feel that's where they decided to drop olimat. It was right after that olimat made the post trying to smear OBR. Funny thing is dan and Sean will still tell you olimat makes some of the best pipes.

@Cooper04 don't regret asking these questions as it's always good to have a good debate specially with something so expensive.

Doug at esp makes very good engines, but his porting is pretty reserved compared to OBR and bartolone. My biggest answer to your question is look at who has the most podium finishes and its bartolone and OBR. If your bashing, honestly pick one and don't look back! Being you already have a OBR get a esp, as you will get opinions both ways and you will be back at square one.
 
So you guys are comparing reed vs piston port power ?? I have always understood and see this in Karting all the time Reed motors produce more power ( hence separate karting classes ) by about 20% IF I remember correctly ? , the reed is a one way air switch so on the downstroke the air inside the cases does NOT blow back out of the carb right ? also with port in the side of the piston there is faster and increase flow from what I remember. ??? im I wrong or more AIR/FUEL in = more POWER .

There is a reason dirt bikes are ALL REED now , they haven't made a piston port dirt bike forever. I also found basic plans for a $500 hydraulic dyno with Arduino to interface a load cell and software.

https://yourdyno.com/brakeabsorber-dynos/
 
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I was going over a Dynomometer in my head and looking at designs , I think I can put together a low cost fairly accurate one for maybe $200 or so ? . Make a disk brake type unit with a load cell and sparkplug wire RPM sensor this would measure either at the large spur gear ( motor power ) or the rear hub ( drive train power ).

parts 1. Carbon fiber disk brake setup https://www.kingmotorrc.com/product-km66002s 2. load cell 3, Arduino for measuring the load cell and rpm's 4. a axle that connects the Hum/Spur gear to the disk brakes 5. pillow bearings to run thru the axle 6, and arm the holds the calipers and has a 1ft extension ( =1 ft/pound of load on the load cell ) and a large plate to mount it all.
for the hub style you would strap down one wheel to stop it, for the spur type no need ,but you need to strap the car down also !

what do you think ? could be shippable to try it out also ( in USA)
 
Seandonato73 said:
You would still need to know barometric pressure, humidity, and a few other inputs for correction factors. But yeah for an extreme low budget build that sounds promising.
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you could manually account for that stuff , I mean if your at 10,000 ft don't dyno a motor LOL ! , I have a control/readout system already 95% built from my Composites press with a 7" touch screen I just need to change the Temp. input to a RPM input , it also has data logging built in also ! see www.masterpresses.com , that would be the interface and it could be programmable .
Seandonato73 said:
You would still need to know barometric pressure, humidity, and a few other inputs for correction factors. But yeah for an extreme low budget build that sounds promising.
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any idea what the differential gear ration is on most cars ? 1:1
 
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buzzkill said:
you could manually account for that stuff , I mean if your at 10,000 ft don't dyno a motor LOL ! , I have a control/readout system already 95% built from my Composites press with a 7" touch screen I just need to change the Temp. input to a RPM input , it also has data logging built in also ! see www.masterpresses.com , that would be the interface and it could be programmable .

any idea what the differential gear ration is on most cars ? 1:1
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No I unfortunately don't, I didnt run a wheel dyno, just an engine dyno. So the ratios wernt an issue. I know you pull in 4 the (direct gear) and then theres the rear end ratio and tire size that play a factor. But beyond that never messed with it much. I would think it would be a lot simpler when just using a fixed gear ratio to keep a pump within its rpm range.
Also the correction factor is so we all speak the same hp numbers no matter elevation, temp, humidity or what have you. So dyno at 10k ?
 
Seandonato73 said:
No I unfortunately don't, I didnt run a wheel dyno, just an engine dyno. So the ratios wernt an issue. I know you pull in 4 the (direct gear) and then theres the rear end ratio and tire size that play a factor. But beyond that never messed with it much. I would think it would be a lot simpler when just using a fixed gear ratio to keep a pump within its rpm range.
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my plan was to attach a disk directly to the hub HEX ( if they are the same size ? ) but ya gear ration will effect rpm's , direct to the crank would be better , I need to look at that closer ( more cost IMO).
Actually you could adjust in math for the gear ration very easily when you download the data just add it to the equation.
 
Direct drive with a love joy and keep the clutch set up, would make starting easy, amd have the ability to swap out to a different size clutch set up at will. And no gearing. I keep forgetting you said about a brake set up, I keep thinking about the hydraulic set up I have plans for.
Yeah you could adjust, I'm sure theres a chart or something for the correction factor.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Direct drive with a love joy and keep the clutch set up, would make starting easy, amd have the ability to swap out to a different size clutch set up at will. And no gearing. I keep forgetting you said about a brake set up, I keep thinking about the hydraulic set up I have plans for.
Yeah you could adjust, I'm sure theres a chart or something for the correction factor.
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I can measure mine , just spin the large spur gear 1 turn and measure the turns on the HUB , WHAT is a LOVE JOY ?
 
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