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- #241
thanks portcity ,Very nice Spents, very tidy looking and properly padded
i'm obsessed with trapping wires, so taken me forever before i was happy
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thanks portcity ,Very nice Spents, very tidy looking and properly padded
Stainless is softer than mild steel. Stainless bolts will often round with ease and long before a medium grade mild steel bolt would.Good call Spents! I know how that can be. I do have to admit the screws provided with these kits definitely is not really top shelf quality. I've had a 2.5 head snap in half on me. I'd like to upgrade to stainless hardware but will do over the winter as a nice little project.
I wasn't being funny myself, just speaking from experience from replacing fasteners on my formula offroad build, stainless is great for corrosion resistance, but just about every bolt for motor mounts, diff mounts etc that has been replaced with stainless requires the heads drilling off due to them rounding off after using loctite, even if heat is applied to soften the loctite.I'm not trying to debate or be a smart ass but please show me the grade of the Kraken Vektas stock chinesium hardware, guaranteed not quality high carbon hardened steel. I'm aware that stainless is softer raw form. This will be an absolute upgrade in corrosion resistance and tensile strength to what is currently there, this is not your average hardware on ebay. Just an example: McMaster Carr is our source for top quality fasteners in any shape or form
I second this, stainless fasteners look good and don't rust but are soft and strip easilyNot telling you what to do, just sharing my experience and frustration with stainless fasteners.
thanks bizzer ,Clean, Spents! Nice job.
thanks lance , there will be much more to come with this build as time goes by as well, lots of changes long termLooks top notch @spents
the screw in question was one that came with the area rc horns portcity, was low grade tbh ,Good call Spents! I know how that can be. I do have to admit the screws provided with these kits definitely is not really top shelf quality. I've had a 2.5 head snap in half on me. I'd like to upgrade to stainless hardware but will do over the winter as a nice little project.
Not offended at all mate. I think it looks greatyeh i'm sure hari will be fine with it doug ,
and looks like it will work s well , re positioned the rx again though ,
its fairly tight but the battery will wiggle in and out now,
just made sense to try it so that battery can be removed through the front cover plate and not have to un bolt the top and bottom sections to do the same
in that case then hari ,Not offended at all mate. I think it looks great
I’ve thought about removing the bottom tabs and trimming the top cover tabs and moving the side cover holes higher a while back.
yeh i was thinkin along those lines an all sean,How hard would it to be to machine two "wings" in the top cover to bolt the side plate on, and remove the tabs altogether?
thanks john, yeh i'm a little bit ocd when it comes to rc stuff ,That looks great. Can appreciate the time spent
yeh haric is a top fella kev , he was fine ,Spents, I'm sure Haric appreciates the feedback and realworld R&D plus the suggestions.
Also a tidy rig is easier to work on, nothing worse than an untidy machine to work on.
Looking forward to seeing the running videos. Keep up the good work fella.
thanks kev , yeh i'm lookin forward to getting the vekta running, am curious how its gonna compare to the dragon hammer handling wise,
both solid axle rc's
yeh theres similarities between the DH and the vekta kev, but a lot of differences as well,I think there will be a few people curious about your feedback as there can't be many people with both the DH and the Vekta. I've only seen 1 DH in person and they look like nice machines but the lad sold it to buy an MCD RR5 and then turned it into a W5 after crashing head-on into my 30DNT and obliterating his front end.
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