The $350 reedcase engine.

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Rep732 said:
I guess whatever works for ya lol
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Well this is with the ported ESP top end also ! , heavy porting and small squish usually likes higher idle speeds in my experience.
Troopermaniac said:
I just bought one of those cheap ones on Amazon. I'll take a video of its rpm once it arrives.
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I just tried my cheap amazon one and it did not do very well ! might be a noise issue ? I used the same sensor into my setup and it worked WAY better FYI ! maybe the one Z mentioned would be better ?? or you could put together the Dyno system electronics for $40 or so ? parts below
 
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I have a 34cc race ported esp and I can control the idle well below the 2000 mark..

edit i have a 32 esp race ported and 2 34cc esp race port engines..no issues with low idle
 
Rep732 said:
I have a 34cc race ported esp and I can control the idle well below the 2000 mark..

edit i have a 32 esp race ported and 2 34cc esp race port engines..no issues with low idle
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how are you measuring rpm's ?? lol, I'll try lowering it some and see how it does , might need to adjust the low end screw also ? it works fine for me as it is tho
 
Its more of a listening thing honestly as I don't have a true rpm gauge. And since my factory zen 32 was and should of been set at 2k so I can atleast tell the difference if I'm close. I had up too high with a new carb and the truck was jumping a little from trying to engage
 
Rep732 said:
Its more of a listening thing honestly as I don't have a true rpm gauge. And since my factory zen 32 was and should of been set at 2k so I can atleast tell the difference if I'm close. I had up too high with a new carb and the truck was jumping a little from trying to engage
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If it was trying to engage then you were close to the SPRING rate in your clutch ! right ? what clutch spring do you run ? Im at 6k ( I doubt the springs are accurate at all ! )
 
8500k.. im not an idiot I only share for knowledge not to get lectured. And no way in hell was it screaming at 8k sitting still. It was idling high but not that high
 
Gonna be starting on my rovan head soon. Made these up for filling the intake. Just incase there was a size discrepancy I made a few different bore sizes.

*edit* 38mm was the winner. Was able to put paper in between while compressing the bore filler. Works really well.
 

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Did some porting on one side. Got myself a new Dremel and it works good. I like to go big or go home so I hope I didn't take too much material off but I doubt it.

I 3d printed a mandrel cutter so that I can cut the squish band. Ordered a cobalt bar and am waiting on it now. Decided to go with +2mm stroke so now I need to modify the reedcase.
 

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is it Rovan or Zenoah cylinder?
good idea to 3d print the mandrel! what material? how will the cutting follow the piston dome shape and the squish band? will you grind the cobalt bars into shape? are they press / tight fit on the mandrel?
 
szaki75 said:
is it Rovan or Zenoah cylinder?
good idea to 3d print the mandrel! what material? how will the cutting follow the piston dome shape and the squish band? will you grind the cobalt bars into shape? are they press / tight fit on the mandrel?
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Theres plenty of home made cutters like that, amd you just straight up removing material to make a flat shelf. The goal is to up compression and or make room for the stroker kit. Adding chamber volume would be difficult without a removable dome.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Theres plenty of home made cutters like that, amd you just straight up removing material to make a flat shelf. The goal is to up compression and or make room for the stroker kit. Adding chamber volume would be difficult without a removable dome.
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Think I should angle them? I was planning on removing material from just the sides and then making another mandrel to cut out a bit more material for the dome shape.


szaki75 said:
is it Rovan or Zenoah cylinder?
good idea to 3d print the mandrel! what material? how will the cutting follow the piston dome shape and the squish band? will you grind the cobalt bars into shape? are they press / tight fit on the mandrel?
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Rovan cylinder. I will eventually do a zenoah one after this one blows up. This is Elegoo's water washable gray resin its pretty tough. The cobalt bars will be cut and glued into the mandrel.
 
szaki75 said:
i'd do so... 10-11° would be fine
View attachment 68359
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For what purpose? The point is making the combustion chamber smaller to increase compression. Really no different then spinning a pop up piston. More compression = more torque, unless your totally taking away the chamber 1mm of material removed isnt the end of the world in these things.
 
Troopermaniac said:
Yeah I have seen chainsaw guys cut it straight. Ill edit the mandrel. If it works good ill release STL
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the one chainsaw that i’ve worked on, was pretty much different from g320rc. it has a flat piston top and off-set plug location. ... and slightly widening sqishband opening. so i’d be more comfortable to cut that sqush falt.

not trying to convince anyone, just share what i saw, think or experienced
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Good stuff. I have to get real crafty with my cobalt bar cutting now. Im thinking about cutting the bits not all the way to the edge and then 3d printing a guide so that they can be super glued to the mandrel without cutting the sidewall of the bore. Ill probably will have to sharpen the edges and have a small amount of cutting material for the sides. This means I would have to cut with low amounts of pressure which could be time consuming but w/e can only do so much without my own end mill and I don't wanna have to pay that price just to reduce like 1mm of material out of the jug.
 
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