Oil/Fuel

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Paging @Seandonato73 the ball pit is getting rowdy here.... ? ...and to be honest break in is a preference...when we rebuild 15+ liter diesel engines at work we keep them in the shop long enough to check for leaks and we let them loose and let er eat....here's the old ring from the redcat...on the flat part it looks smooth and fine..if you look hard you can see the burr on the edge it wore away enough material and poof no compression and cylinder and piston were spotless20201002_163551.jpg
 
ding ding full throttle WITH load... i agree..since im diesel side of things...if you use the jake brakes on a truck free revving you run the risk of bending pushrods and valves...when the jake is used it needs a load on it to help control the valve train so it doesn't rev up or down to fast....
 
Sorry at a wedding.... just got home.
So the very short version, break in is a waste of time. Idc what engine. Dynoed too many to justify pussy footing around getting a load on the rings. Free revving is also bs, rings need dynamic load to force them out into the cylinder walls. Normally you would vary the rpm a bit, but full load only occurs at rated rpm. don't matter if that's 1800 rpm or 20k rpm. (Our engines are typically rated to around 15k for peak power btw + or - a bit) synthetic does take longer to break in. It's just a fact. It lubricates better than dino juice. I don't swap from one to the other, its normally not worth the extra bottle. The ring (s) should be set within the first few minuets of running. The heat cycle is poop for the birds, and well as low rpm break ins. That's to bed journal bearings, and 2 strokes use ball bearings. So for the sake of argument, worthless to consider for our specific application. The engine should be allowed to warm up a bit before getting with it. After that balls to the walls.
Oil ratio in modern engines is largely in part because of emissions. 32 to 1 was the standard ratio for years. Yes more oil helps seal the rings an cool the engine....but get this, more oil decreases the octane rating, and will cause more carbon fouling of the engine. Oil ratio is also determined by load, and rpm. 2 strokes use a pass through lubrication system (hence why we add oil) so the more rpm, the less time the oil spends in the engine, so you would need more oil. You also have to factor time loaded. In a race application I would spring for a higher oil rate, as the load on the engine is typically larger than a basher. You can tell this from your spark plug. (Which we recently talked about) funny thing is, a 250cc heavily modified mx engine get 40 to 1 nowadays and lives a good long life. And we use 25, and 28 to 1 in our glorified weedwacker engines. We mentioned saws... I have saws that range in age from the 60s to models currently in production. The all eat the 40 to 1 I feed them and none of them have given up the ghost, due to an oil related failure. I guarantee I run my saws harder cutting, in much worse conditions than an rc engine will see in its life.
I'll echo what polar, and a few others have said. Run wtf you want. If it works for you, no use squabbling about it. I'll stick to 40 to 1, and obr and whoever else will tell you thats not enough oil, because they can. And for obvious liability issues as well. Imo anything over 32 to 1 is a waste of expensive oil. Just me, idc how much you put in your engine.
Oh, my basement is my shop.... no Zed dungeons for me, or out buildings atm.... one day...
 
Sorry at a wedding.... just got home.
So the very short version, break in is a waste of time. Idc what engine. Dynoed too many to justify pussy footing around getting a load on the rings. Free revving is also bs, rings need dynamic load to force them out into the cylinder walls. Normally you would vary the rpm a bit, but full load only occurs at rated rpm. don't matter if that's 1800 rpm or 20k rpm. (Our engines are typically rated to around 15k for peak power btw + or - a bit) synthetic does take longer to break in. It's just a fact. It lubricates better than dino juice. I don't swap from one to the other, its normally not worth the extra bottle. The ring (s) should be set within the first few minuets of running. The heat cycle is poop for the birds, and well as low rpm break ins. That's to bed journal bearings, and 2 strokes use ball bearings. So for the sake of argument, worthless to consider for our specific application. The engine should be allowed to warm up a bit before getting with it. After that balls to the walls.
Oil ratio in modern engines is largely in part because of emissions. 32 to 1 was the standard ratio for years. Yes more oil helps seal the rings an cool the engine....but get this, more oil decreases the octane rating, and will cause more carbon fouling of the engine. Oil ratio is also determined by load, and rpm. 2 strokes use a pass through lubrication system (hence why we add oil) so the more rpm, the less time the oil spends in the engine, so you would need more oil. You also have to factor time loaded. In a race application I would spring for a higher oil rate, as the load on the engine is typically larger than a basher. You can tell this from your spark plug. (Which we recently talked about) funny thing is, a 250cc heavily modified mx engine get 40 to 1 nowadays and lives a good long life. And we use 25, and 28 to 1 in our glorified weedwacker engines. We mentioned saws... I have saws that range in age from the 60s to models currently in production. The all eat the 40 to 1 I feed them and none of them have given up the ghost, due to an oil related failure. I guarantee I run my saws harder cutting, in much worse conditions than an rc engine will see in its life.
I'll echo what polar, and a few others have said. Run wtf you want. If it works for you, no use squabbling about it. I'll stick to 40 to 1, and obr and whoever else will tell you thats not enough oil, because they can. And for obvious liability issues as well. Imo anything over 32 to 1 is a waste of expensive oil. Just me, idc how much you put in your engine.
Oh, my basement is my shop.... no Zed dungeons for me, or out buildings atm.... one day...
I encourage everyone to make up their own dam mind.... I'm just an idiot, ask my wife ?.
+1 ??
See i was right all along ???????
 
Yeah cold engines don't like to be revved. Diesel especially.
In our case, you would get a 4 point seize, sometimes only 2. The piston swelled faster than tolerance allows and the areas around the exhaust and intake grab the cylinder a bit. It doesn't always present as a locked up engine. I've had a few saws apart for rebuild, and didnt know till I popped the piston out. That was just a mild case, worse case the engine locks up, and transfers a bunch of alloy onto the cylinder. Just really have to give it a minute to get some heat in the cylinder.
 
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