spents shorty roofchopper rail build

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thanks for the suggestions kev and port (y),
yeh i have thought about electric starters before, but the added weight, plus physically fitting em in on some rigs is a pain in the arse :ROFLMAO:,
if i was gonna go electric start then i'd have to do all my petrol/gas rc's, at the moment thats five :LOL:,
so would be £1000 to do all five with the fid version and $1350 if i used the arrow shark version,
and yes miles is right about the pawl cage being similar on the fid version (y)
i do get why people use em, but gonna stick with some form of pull starter for now,
or go roto start on everything eventually which would be cheaper when all said and done (y)(y),

anyways, i pulled the pawl cage apart and had a measure up,
bear in mind theres virtually no wear on the cage/pawls,
but the pawl shafts are 6.2mm and the id of the bushings is 6.6mm,
so 0.4mm of slop with hardly any wear on em, thats been the same the whole way through the turdle starter tbh, lots of slop,
i did look through my boxes of stuff to see if i had some bearings the right size or some bronze to make some better tighter bushings, but no luck,
every other part i've removed all the slop now, and have just ordered the bearing modded pawl cage, so hopefully that will be nice and slop free (y):D,
should be here tuesday so i can get it back together fully,
also ordered an fs clutch as well with an 8k spring cos never tried one before, and doug raves about em,
plus some zenoah clutch bolts/washers (y),


 
Spents been thinking about your pawl plate after machining my own.
What slop do you have vertically rather than the bore of the bush.
I noticed when mounting the pawls in my plate that if the hole isn't deep enough it makes the pawls sit off vertical and makes them bind slightly leading to non smooth operation.
I ran the bottom of the pawl on some wet and dry, the face that rubs on the plate, and now have smooth operation, that's with 5.9mm hole drilled for a 5.84mm shaft.
P.S. I'm using the pawls from a Rovan easy start.
 
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I had to have Mike machine a set of zen pawls down for my pullstart because they were giving me an issue and snapping the diamond cord and destroying the reel. The cage position on my 80s crank made a 2mm spec miscalculation when setting it up
In case anyone runs into a situation where their bigbore is snapping ropes and pawls when new
Not sure if this applies here being your using aftermarket cages and recoils on these smallbores
 
Seandonato73 said:
The fs clutch is the last clutch you'll buy as far as a basher is concerned.
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yeh i'm gonna swap over to everything with the fs as and when the cy/zen clutches wear out sean (y) ,
KevTrem said:
Spents been thinking about your pawl plate after machining my own.
What slop do you have vertically rather than the bore of the bush.
I noticed when mounting the pawls in my plate that if the hole isn't deep enough it makes the pawls sit off vertical and makes them bind slightly leading to non smooth operation.
I ran the bottom of the pawl on some wet and dry, the face that rubs on the plate, and now have smooth operation, that's with 5.9mm hole drilled for a 5.84mm shaft.
P.S. I'm using the pawls from a Rovan easy start.
Click to expand...
theres around 1mm of slop vertical kev,
i shimmed it out and the pawls just bound up, i took all the slop out though so the springs didnt have enough wiggle room,
removed the shims and that 1mm vertical is just way too much and the pawls ride over the stop in the centre of the plate,
the turdle pawls have a v notch machined into em on that i take is a wear thing, plus tp stop em binding,
your tolerance is what should be on the turdle ones tbh, you have 0,06mm shaft to hole and the one i have is 0.4mm which is feckin huge really,
should have the bearing modded one on tuesdayy and that should solve the issue,
as long as bearings versus the shaft are the right sizes that is :ROFLMAO:
 
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so got the bits needed today (y),
assembled and fitted the turdle pawl plate, so much better is the bearing version , almost zero slop (y),
this is how the bushed version should be ,



then fitted the fs clutch (y),
bit of reference info , if you use a gtb clutch stopper tool, then the stopper don't work with an fs clutch,
the outer edge where the stopper usually grips is a slightly different shape,



vertigo laust plus carb etc back on ,



then the turdle starter back together and fitted again,
works much better and smoother now with the billet dog/cog and the bearing pawl plate (y)





then spent some time hunting out some pieces of alloy to do some other jobs (y) :D
 
szaki75 said:
nice work spent! (y)
when do you try and see if it runs as it should? i want to mark the day in the calendar.. ;)
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thanks szaki (y),
hopefully soon , but don't hold your breath, it may take a while :ROFLMAO:
DougStar said:
Well let hope you see the back of pullstart issues 👍🏻
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hope so too doug :LOL:, sean was right though, the turdle starter never was the best,
but it could have been so much better with a little more care taken with tolerances etc :), we will see sometime soon ish though :D
 
Seandonato73 said:
Hope it all works out thus time spents. You put plenty of work into the bugger.
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yeh i have put lots of time in with this sean aint i :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:,
i think the starter should be fine now, the engine, well we will see soon enough when i get it back in the rail and buttoned up again,
if the engine still aint right i'm gonna use as many parts from the 34 as i can and build a non reed engine,
already tracked down an esp 32/34 top end,
tbh all i'd need is the top end kit and g320 cases, mod the cases for the +2mm crank and build it,
but will see if the reed works first (y),
 
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