spents vekta.5 lse build

[Haric]

looking good paul!

 

[DougStar]

Looking good spents It shows you have done lots of this
To banana

so i did what sean suggested and fitted cage and bonnet and pipe ,
also looked at seans build thread to see where he placed his antenna on the haric box,
have a rough idea now, but needs to be as far forward as possible cos the plan is to change the engine up in the future and pipe will be bigger ,



then got sidetracked from drilling the holes needed and started sanding and polishing ,
haric said sand and polish, so spent the afternoon sanding to get most of the machine marks out on the sides etc,
top of box after first polish,



top section just placed on top of bottom section,
first polish versus just sanded/smoothed,

All jokes aside good job
Looking good spents It shows you have done lots of this
To banana

so i did what sean suggested and fitted cage and bonnet and pipe ,
also looked at seans build thread to see where he placed his antenna on the haric box,
have a rough idea now, but needs to be as far forward as possible cos the plan is to change the engine up in the future and pipe will be bigger ,



then got sidetracked from drilling the holes needed and started sanding and polishing ,
haric said sand and polish, so spent the afternoon sanding to get most of the machine marks out on the sides etc,
top of box after first polish,



top section just placed on top of bottom section,
first polish versus just sanded/smoothed,

All jokes aside good job

 

[spents]

looking good paul!

thanks haric , cant do too much on the top cos don't wanna spolil the kraken logo,
gave it a 2500 grit wet n dry and then polished that bit ,
the rest has been smoothed as much as i can/dare, then buffed,
not sure what grade alloy you use for these , but it does polish quite well

Looking good spents It shows you have done lots of this
To banana

All jokes aside good job
Looking good spents It shows you have done lots of this
To banana

All jokes aside good job

pmsl doug, how many replies ? ,
thanks doug ,
and lmao .

 

[spents]

more polishing of the haric box today ,
it is a messy job though, but very therapeutic ,



polished as much as its gonna get ,





and yes i did do the underside ,
didnt put as good a finish on it though,
didnt want to lose the haric logo with too much sanding ,



then drilled holes for and fitted the antenna holder and kill switch led,
plus fitted stock on/off switch,

 

[Haric]

wow! That came out great Paul!

 

[DougStar]

Looks awsome before I couldn't see the dent ........ scuff is up again so the dent goes away

 

[Z.hb71]

Looks awsome before I couldn't see the dent ........ scuff is up again so the dent goes away

I think you got a dent in your brain

 

[spents]

wow! That came out great Paul!

thanks haric , yeh it buffed up quite well didnt it ,
and thanks again hari

Looks awsome before I couldn't see the dent ........ scuff is up again so the dent goes away

pmsl doug , yeh i'll give it a scuff then ,
nah, the dents too deep to rub out doug, and its in such a place that it cant be tapped out from behind,
i can live with it, haric did me a solid with this batt box and one tiny dent is a small blemish on an otherwise spot on part ,
edit, and thanks doug

 

[DougStar]

thanks haric , yeh it buffed up quite well didnt it ,
and thanks again hari

pmsl doug , yeh i'll give it a scuff then ,
nah, the dents too deep to rub out doug, and its in such a place that it cant be tapped out from behind,
i can live with it, haric did me a solid with this batt box and one tiny dent is a small blemish on an otherwise spot on part ,

Yeah jus fuken with ya looks awsome

 

[spents]

Yeah jus fuken with ya looks awsome

yeh i know you were doug ,
as ya know i likes shiny stuff , i would never scuff it up again on purpose ,
i may try and find a small owl sticker to go over the dent though

 

[spents]

right, opinions please ,
i have an obsession about snagging servo wires etc ,
and the vekta is a pain when it comes to the throttle servo wire,
the wire sticks out at the rear where the suspension link is like this,



i know everyone with a vekta will have had the same issue,
so i've tried nylon sheath, spiral wrap etc etc, and all that does is make everything too tight and moves the point where the wires strained the most right where it enters the servo,
so i did this below, double sided taped the wire to the bottom of the servo then gorilla clear taped over the top,



also added some cushioning to the front of the upright where the wire passes close by,
now looks like this with the servo back in there,
do you fellas think this will be ok ?
or do ya think i have too tight a turn in the sire where it exits the servo ?

 

[KevTrem]

Spents I'm going to ask a silly question, be kind.

Can you not lift the servo up and use some spacers to move the cable clear of the pivot?

 

[John Parks]

Looks like itbwill work to me

 

[spents]

Spents I'm going to ask a silly question, be kind.

Can you not lift the servo up and use some spacers to move the cable clear of the pivot?

lol kev, not a silly question at all mate ,
its not actually the picot, or the rear arm thats the problem, the wire does clear the actual pivot, my pic is a tad crap tbh, its the metal link pin doodad that i'm worried that the wire will chafe on,
space is tight, cant lift the servo too much cos of the pipe bracket and will change the linkage angle if ya get what i mean,
i didnt actually think about lifting the servo tbh though,
i will have a better look later on and see if i can lift it a tad ,
i worry about the slightest thing with wiring, its the one thing on rc that bugs the hell outa me

Looks like itbwill work to me

thanks john ,
and thanks to kev and yerself for yer opinions

 

[KevTrem]

I was only meaning about 2mm after looking at your pic's for clearance of throttle/brake linkages.
Nowt worse than chafing cables, especially on silly expensive servo's lol.

 

[Seandonato73]

I kinda routed mine around the back of the servo and towards the box. Kinda a crap way to do it, but doesn't seem to be an issue.

 

[spents]

I was only meaning about 2mm after looking at your pic's for clearance of throttle/brake linkages.
Nowt worse than chafing cables, especially on silly expensive servo's lol.

yeh gonna have a looksy in a minute kev and see if theres a better way etc ,
see whats gonna be the best option,
lol, i bet everyone thinks i'm being over concerned, but yeh chafing on a hilantronic i don't want ,
i'm just crap at deciding when it comes to wiring i'm never happy

I kinda routed mine around the back of the servo and towards the box. Kinda a crap way to do it, but doesn't seem to be an issue.

thats another option i'm gonna look at then sean,
thanks for that suggestion ,
i cant believe no ones come up with a servo where ya get the option of which side ya can have the wires comin out,
like a plug with a retainer and grommet type of thing,
then if ya need the wire at opposite end ya just unplug and move it over and grommet the other end,

 

[RcJunkie13]

if yer that concerned over chafing, put some heat shrink over the wire

 

[Milo]

right, opinions please ,
i have an obsession about snagging servo wires etc ,
and the vekta is a pain when it comes to the throttle servo wire,
the wire sticks out at the rear where the suspension link is like this,



i know everyone with a vekta will have had the same issue,
so i've tried nylon sheath, spiral wrap etc etc, and all that does is make everything too tight and moves the point where the wires strained the most right where it enters the servo,
so i did this below, double sided taped the wire to the bottom of the servo then gorilla clear taped over the top,



also added some cushioning to the front of the upright where the wire passes close by,
now looks like this with the servo back in there,
do you fellas think this will be ok ?
or do ya think i have too tight a turn in the sire where it exits the servo ?

It looks ok Paul, but I get what you mean about the bending radius of the cable. If you want to put less stress on the cable you could route it upwards towards the bracket, then left and around the side of the servo. Keeping it flat of course.

That way each bend is no more than 90 degrees, even less if you leave a couple of mm of slack for each bend.

If your cable is gonna fail it will be at the 180 degree bend I reckon. Should be fine though.

 

[spents]

if yer that concerned over chafing, put some heat shrink over the wire

not always that easy though junkie ,
adding heat shrink adds thickness, and that in turn chafes, or crushes the wire or moves the point where the wire f;exes to the point it comes out of the servo, or increases the flex in that area, then you end up with a broken wire and either a servo that wont work or at worst the servo fries ,
and at £158 a servo for the hilantronic or $220 in american it needs to be spot on,
space is tight to run the wires in a decent way thats all,

It looks ok Paul, but I get what you mean about the bending radius of the cable. If you want to put less stress on the cable you could route it upwards towards the bracket, then left and around the side of the servo. Keeping it flat of course.

That way each bend is no more than 90 degrees, even less if you leave a couple of mm of slack for each bend.

If your cable is gonna fail it will be at the 180 degree bend I reckon. Should be fine though.

doing it the sean way miles ,
up and round the back of the servo, taped to back of servo with some cushioned gorilla tape, still has an air gap between the side rail and the wire